Why Use Polysorbate 80 for Oil Cleansing?
In the realm of modern cosmetic formulation, the efficacy of a polysorbate 80 oil cleanser relies heavily on the principles of surfactant chemistry. At foodemul.com, we supply high-purity Polysorbate 80 (Tween 80), a non-ionic surfactant and emulsifier derived from polyethoxylated sorbitan and oleic acid. While traditional oil cleansing relies on the “like dissolves like” principle to solubilize sebum and makeup, it often fails at the removal stage, leaving a greasy residue.
Incorporating polysorbate 80 for oil cleansing transforms a standard carrier oil into a “hydrophilic oil.” This modification allows the oil to bind with impurities on the skin but rinse away cleanly with water, bridging the gap between effective solvation and consumer convenience.
The Science: How Polysorbate 80 Emulsifies Oil and Water
Polysorbate 80 possesses an HLB (Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance) value of approximately 15. In surfactant terminology, a high HLB indicates a strong affinity for water. When you formulate an oil cleanser, the Polysorbate 80 remains dissolved in the oil phase (the continuous phase) while the product is in the bottle.
However, the chemistry changes the moment water is introduced during the rinsing process. The surfactant molecules orient themselves at the interface between the oil and the water. The lipophilic (oil-loving) tails anchor into the cleansing oil and dissolved sebum, while the hydrophilic (water-loving) heads extend into the rinse water. This formation creates an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion, encapsulating the dirt and oil into micelles that are easily washed down the drain without physical scrubbing.
Benefits for Makeup Removal and Double Cleansing
For R&D managers developing products for the double cleansing with polysorbate 80 trend, this surfactant offers distinct advantages over other solubilizers:
- High Solubilizing Capacity: Its oleic acid moiety makes it particularly effective at dissolving heavy, oil-based foundations and waterproof mascara.
- Rinse-Off Efficacy: Unlike lower HLB surfactants (like Span 80), Polysorbate 80 ensures a clean finish, preventing the “film” often associated with pure oil cleansing.
- Versatility: It is compatible with a wide range of carrier oils, from non-polar mineral oils to polar vegetable oils like Jojoba or Hemp seed oil.
Formulator’s Note: Always verify the purity of your raw materials. foodemul.com ensures our Polysorbate 80 meets strict regulatory standards, minimizing by-products that can cause irritation in sensitive facial applications.
Polysorbate 80 vs. Emulsifying Wax and Other Oils
When determining polysorbate 80 vs emulsifying oil blends, it is crucial to understand the physical state and functionality of your emulsifier. Many novice formulators confuse liquid surfactants with waxy emulsifiers.
| Component | Physical State | Primary Application | Rinse-Off Profile |
|---|---|---|---|
| Polysorbate 80 | Viscous Liquid | Liquid cleansing oils, blooming bath oils | Excellent; turns milky instantly upon water contact. |
| Polysorbate 20 | Thin Liquid | Essential oil solubilization, toners | Good, but less effective for heavy carrier oils than Poly 80. |
| Emulsifying Wax (NF) | Solid Waxy Pellets | Lotions, creams, solid balms | Requires heating to melt; creates thicker, creamier emulsions. |
Polysorbate 80 is superior for liquid formulations because it does not require heating (cold process) and maintains the fluidity of the carrier oil.
Safety Profile: Is Polysorbate 80 Non-Comedogenic?
A frequent concern in skincare formulation is whether ingredients will clog pores. When engineering a non-comedogenic oil cleanser polysorbate 80 formulation, the surfactant itself is generally considered low-risk for comedogenicity, especially in rinse-off products. Because Polysorbate 80 is designed to be washed away completely, it does not remain on the skin long enough to cause occlusion.
However, the comedogenicity of the final product is often dictated by the carrier oils chosen. For acne-prone skin formulations, we recommend pairing Polysorbate 80 with low-comedogenic oils such as:
- Hemp Seed Oil
- Grapeseed Oil
- Safflower Oil (High Linoleic)
How to Make Oil Cleanser with Polysorbate 80 (DIY Recipes)
Below are professional baseline formulations for those researching how to make oil cleanser with polysorbate 80. These ratios are scalable for industrial pilot batches.
Basic Hydrophilic Oil Cleanser Recipe (The 10-15% Rule)
The industry standard for a rinse-off oil cleanser utilizes a surfactant concentration between 10% and 15%. Going below 10% may result in poor emulsification (greasy residue), while exceeding 15% can be drying to the skin.
| Phase | Ingredient | Percentage (%) | Function |
|---|---|---|---|
| A | Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides (MCT Oil) | 50.0% | Lightweight Carrier Oil |
| A | Sunflower or Jojoba Oil | 34.5% | Nourishing Lipid |
| A | Polysorbate 80 (foodemul.com) | 15.0% | Emulsifier / Solubilizer |
| B | Tocopherol (Vitamin E) | 0.5% | Antioxidant |
Procedure: Simply combine all Phase A ingredients and stir until the Polysorbate 80 is fully dispersed. Add Phase B and mix. No heat is required.
Formulating a Polysorbate 80 Cleansing Balm
A polysorbate 80 cleansing balm is essentially a solidified oil cleanser. To achieve this, you must incorporate a thickening agent like Cetyl Alcohol or Stearic Acid.
- Carrier Oils: 70%
- Thickener (Cetyl Alcohol/Wax): 15%
- Polysorbate 80: 14%
- Preservative/Antioxidant: 1%
Note: This process requires heating the oils and wax until melted, then adding the Polysorbate 80 during the cool-down phase to ensure stability.
Troubleshooting Your Formulation
Separation Issues and Solubility
While Polysorbate 80 is robust, separation can occur if the polarity of the carrier oils varies drastically. If you notice a haze or separation at the bottom of your vessel:
- Check Polarity: Highly polar oils may require a co-emulsifier or a slight adjustment in the Polysorbate ratio.
- Water Contamination: Ensure no water enters the production line. Even trace amounts of water can trigger premature emulsification (cloudiness) inside the bottle.
- Homogenization: Ensure adequate agitation time. While Polysorbate 80 is liquid, it is viscous and needs thorough mixing to disperse evenly in lighter oils.
Frequently Asked Questions
Here are the most common technical inquiries regarding surfactant-based oil cleansers.
How much polysorbate 80 to use in an oil cleanser?
For an effective facial cleanser, the recommended usage rate is 10% to 15%. At 10%, the product will emulsify lightly and may leave a very slight conditioning film, which is desirable for dry skin. At 15%, the product will rinse off very cleanly, suitable for oily skin or heavy makeup removal. Exceeding 20% is unnecessary and may strip the skin barrier.
What does polysorbate 80 do in skincare?
In skincare, Polysorbate 80 acts primarily as a solubilizer and emulsifier. It allows oil-based ingredients (like fragrance oils, vitamins, and carrier oils) to mix with water. In cleansers, it serves as the mechanism that allows the oil to turn into a milky emulsion upon contact with water, facilitating easy removal without leaving a greasy residue.
What makes an oil cleanser emulsify?
An oil cleanser emulsifies due to the presence of a surfactant with a high Hydrophile-Lipophile Balance (HLB), such as Polysorbate 80. The surfactant lowers the surface tension between the oil on your face and the water from your tap. This allows the water to break the oil into tiny droplets (micelles), creating a temporary white, milky mixture that flows freely off the skin.
What happens if you don’t emulsify oil cleanser?
If you do not include an emulsifier like Polysorbate 80, you are essentially applying pure oil to your face. While this dissolves makeup, water alone cannot rinse it off because oil and water repel each other. This forces the user to use physical removal methods, such as hot cloth scrubbing, which can irritate the skin. Furthermore, non-emulsified oil can remain trapped in pores, leading to congestion and breakouts.
